Women’s Wear Daily
04.23.2014

Spring Ready-to-Wear 2012

Marchesa

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Backstage at Marchesa Spring 2012

Lead stylist Renato Campora, for Frédéric Fekkai, created a sleek back-do, infused with a partial fishtail for the spring collection.

Backstage at Marchesa RTW Spring 2012

Lead stylist Renato Campora, for Frédéric Fekkai, created a sleek back-do, infused with a partial fishtail, for Marchesa’s spring collection. After applying Fekkai Coiff Strong Hold Volume Mousse, Campora began by brushing hair and used a flatiron to “make hair very straight.” He then pulled hair into a low ponytail at the nape of the neck, leaving a large piece in the front. Campora sprayed Fekkai Coiff Sheer Hold Hairspray onto the hair and blow-dried it into the style. Finally, he pulled the loose hair from the front back, covering the ear, and used it to wrap the ponytail. “We covered the elastic with hair so it would look a little more designed,” said Campora, who used bobby pins to secure the hair wrap. “It’s quite minimal but also dramatic,” he said. Campora finished by creating a fishtail braid at the top of the ponytail, leaving it half done. “The idea was to leave part of it undone,” said Campora, who added that he felt the modern feel of the style complemented the old-world feeling of the event’s venue, The Plaza Hotel, and Marchesa’s dramatic, detailed collection.


Talia Shobrook, head makeup artist for Le Métier de Beauté, was inspired by “water nymphs” — also a theme in the collection. “I wanted to make the makeup work so that it complemented the clothing without being too strong,” said Shobrook, who gave skin textures of high pearl and wetness and a touch of transparent glitter for the eye. Shobrook prepped skin with Peau Vierge Tinted Treatment Fluid, then used concealer to perfect the skin and Marchesa for Le Métier de Beauté Sheer Illumination Brightener on the eye, nose, forehead and chin. On cheeks, Shobrook applied Radiance Powder Rouge in Whisper and a dusting of Classic Flawless Finish Loose Powder over the entire face. To create luminescent eyes, Shobrook used Magic Lustre Crème and applied false lashes, which she coated in Anamorphic Lash Mascara in Black.

 

“It’s very fairylike and ethereal,” said Shobrook. “When the light hits the face, it will glow.” To create a “just bitten” lip, pouts were stained with Crème Fresh Tint in Ginger Lily. Nails, also done by Le Métier de Beauté, were left clear on the hands and a coat of Midnight Rendezvous, from the line’s fall collection, was applied to the toes.

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