Paris Preview: The Scene

Some tastes, shops and scents around the City of Light.

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Some tastes, shops and scents around the City of Light.

If French cuisine had a couturière, it would be chef Anne-Sophie Pic. The fact that she is the only woman in France to hold three Michelin stars makes the opening of her first Paris restaurant a headline event.

But rather than spin out what she’s doing at her homestead, La Maison Pic in Valence, France, Pic opted for an original new concept, La Dame de Pic, in collaboration with Takasago perfumer Philippe Bousseton. The pair created three fragrances, each representative of a different fixed-price menu. Guests are first presented not with a menu but mouillettes bearing scents called Vanille ambré, Iode et fleur and Sous-bois épicés. The fragrances and menus will change every two months.

Then come dishes with surprising textures, such as the small tomatoes nestled among peaks of vanilla flavored with rum and mozzarella cream, or Gillardeau oysters with cauliflower puree sprinkled with jasmine.

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Decor by Philippe Starck protégé Bruno Borrione echoes Pic’s sensibility, offsetting white brick with neo-baroque crystal lamps and mirrors, massive wooden tables and 3-D “couture” leather tableaux by English artist Helen Amy Murray. The storefront is an open kitchen, already a reliable draw for onlookers day and night.

Tina Isaac

La Dame de Pic, 20 Rue du Louvre, 75001
Tel.: +33-1-42-60-40-40
Fixed price menus at 79 euros, 100 euros and 120 euros, or $103, $130 and $157, respectively, at current exchange. The lunch menu is 49 euros, or $64.
Reservations are essential; Closed Sunday.


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